Australia Part 2 : May 8 - 21
Port Arthur, Tasmania : Friday May 19, 2006
Six o’clock has become our normal time to get up because we just didn’t allot enough time to explore this wonderful island. So we are trying to fit in as much as we can every day. To fully appreciate just the highlights of Tasmania would require a couple of weeks not four days. This seems to be a common theme throughout our travels of Australia. Brian claims that can be fixed by moving here.
As we traveled the island’s back roads in the wee hours of the morning, we kept our eyes peeled for the elusive Tasmanian devil. Yesterday we spotted a couple as road kill so we knew that they were out there. According to “Crocodile Hunter” Steve Irwin who was on the Australian Today show, the tassie population has decreased by almost half in recent years. Unusually though, this decline has not been because of human interference. Apparently when Tasmanian devils meet each other in the wild, they hiss with wide open mouths at each other and scratch with their claws. A deadly facial cancer has developed and is rapidly been spread between animals during these interactions. Tasmanian scientists are scrambling to find a vaccine, create a cancer resistant animal and possible other solutions to stop the deaths.
As we neared the Tasman Peninsula on the southeast corner of the state, we stopped to view some of the impressive coastal formations. The most unique feature was the beach called Tessellated Rocks which looked like a series of square solid pillows with deep grooves between them. The unusual erosion patterns were caused when saltwater washing over the rocks worked its way into the cracks. As the water evaporated salt crystals grew between the rock grains and pushed them apart, so the patterns were created. At other vantage points, we viewed geological formations in various stages of erosion. From youngest to oldest were the Blowhole, the Arch and the Devil’s Kitchen with the first structure still retaining its cave-like appearance to the last which had lost its roof and resembled a large gorge. It was quite educational to see them all so close together.
The historic site of Port Arthur was our main focus of the day. Initially in 1830, it was just a small timber felling camp with about 16 convicts and an equal number of military guards. However by 1833, as the number of convicts sent from England increased and with this, the number of repeat offenders in the new colony, a secure place was required to house the troublemakers. It was the geographical remoteness of the Tasman Peninsula linked to the rest of the area by a narrow strip of land that led to the development of Port Arthur as a large penal colony. To prevent possible escapees from walking across this connection, a contingent of soldiers was posted at Eaglehawk Neck and soon after a canine alert force. Strung across the sand and even on floating platforms in the bay, eighteen large mastiffs were tethered to a post and a lamp. If anything came near them, they created so much noise that the guards were alerted. One wily prisoner almost made his escape when he draped a kangaroo skin over his back and hopped by the dogs. Even though they barked, the guards thought it was a kangaroo because it was dusk and difficult to see clearly. However when one guard decided to shoot the roo for some meat for dinner, the prisoner threw off his covering and surrendered. Rumours abounded within the prison camp that the waters were filled with man-eating sharks and as most of the prisoners couldn’t swim, not many chose to escape via the water.
In its heyday, Port Arthur was a bustling place as evidenced by the buildings left remaining and its bursting population of over 2000 residents. It was an odd mix of society as the prisoners and free people consisting of military personnel, civilians such as doctors, accountants and later government officials with their families and servants were all thrown together. Initially they had to all work together to survive in the wilderness of the Tasmanian forests as ships delivering goods from abroad were scarce. However over time and with the increasing exports of lumber and wool, the area flourished. The swampy bay was filled in by the convicts using picks and shovels to create a deep water harbour right up to the shore. A large English style garden park was created in the center of the community, as well as a large church, hospital, sawmill, shipbuilding dockyard, flour mill later to become a large penitentiary, an insane asylum, a separate prison for solitary confinement and dozens of homes from large mansions to cottages. Many of these buildings still remain either in ruins or in restored conditions and were open for touring.
Today Port Arthur is a large tourist site and the historical value of it has been firmly embraced by the Tasmanian government. The museum associated with it was fabulous. Upon purchasing our tickets, we were given a playing card which represented a real historical convict. We followed the prompts to find out “our fate”. Were we “model” prisoners or troublemakers, what job were we given upon arrival in Tasmania, did we survive the prison etc? It was a great way to get people involved in the displays. I turned out to be a young boat lad, although not a very experienced one. I didn’t get into much trouble and eventually was granted release at the end of my sentence. Sierra’s prisoner stole a lamb after arriving in Tasmania and was sent to Port Arthur with a sentence of life imprisonment. He attempted to escape once but was caught and received 50 lashes; later he became the colony’s chief shipbuilder. Brian’s character was a slow learner. He was an Irish lad (as many of the transported prisoners were) who was caught in drunken condition with a barmaid in England and was charged with unsavoury conduct. Later in Tasmania, he was once again caught by the police in the same manner and was sent to Port Arthur. He managed to escape in a boat with two other prisoners but was found drunk and disorderly in Hobart not long after. He was sent back to Port Arthur and eventually died in prison. The fate of Brennan’s character was less well known. He was placed on a lumber gang in Port Arthur and after stealing a tin of bacon was given three weeks of solitary confinement.
By 1853 the number of transported prisoners was decreasing and the population of Port Arthur’s convicts was aging. In fact some of the men had finished their sentences and could have left the facility but because they had nowhere to go and no skills to take them into the outside world, they chose to remain as prisoners at Port Arthur. The commandant called them the “useless old men” and they were housed in a separate building near the main penitentiary. When the prison closed its doors in the 1877, these “relics” were taken to Hobart and turned over to charitable organizations for same keeping. It was the beginning of the Australian social system.
The homes and properties of Port Arthur were pulled down or gutted by fire but the rest were sold by the government to private individuals after the closure of the prison. It became an instant tourist attraction even as the locals were trying to downplay the historical truth. In fact the townspeople changed the name from Port Arthur to Carnarvon to hide their “shame”. Many of the buildings were vandalized as souvenir hunters took away pieces of them. Other ones such as the commandant’s mansion were converted into hotels or museums for the sightseers.
Included in the entry fee was a trip on a ferry boat around the harbour with commentary on some of the sites around the bay. The main topics discussed were the Isle of the Dead, the cemetery where 1100 of Port Arthur’s deceased were buried, the Point Puer Boys Prison which housed boys as young as nine years of age and the shipbuilding area. We didn’t get to take this part of the tour because we just didn’t have enough time. The guides suggested that visitors should allow two days to full explore Port Arthur and the entry ticket is valid for 48 hours. We did as much as we could in five hours! Another tour that looked fascinating was the nighttime ghost tour. It would be necessary to book this one well in advance and to stay overnight in the local area.
We had accommodations reserved in Hobart, about 90 minutes drive away. Our lodgings for the night were fabulous. We stayed at the Macquarie Inn, a heritage building originally constructed for a doctor in the 1860s. It also included a yummy breakfast. The only tricky part was the parking as it was very tight and cars needed to be lined up one behind the other.
Saturday, May 20, 2006: Hobart, Australia
The best thing to do on a Saturday morning in Hobart was to explore the outdoor markets in Salamanca, a region near the wharfs and warehouses. There were at least 300 stalls filled with food, local arts and crafts, used books, gadgets, housewares etc. It was very cold (3C) as we toured the grounds but at least the sun was shining. The weatherman had predicted rain all day. We showed some restraint in our purchases; Sierra bought a used book, Brennan a sausage in a bun (hungry teenager!!!), some coconut ice candy and fruit leather. One would think that we hadn’t eaten breakfast this morning. I also wanted a large hand carved bowl made from eucalyptus but couldn’t figure out how to get it home; our bags are bulging already. I think my parents will be taking some stuff back to Canada for us after we meet up in the Gold Coast.
As the morning progressed our walking tour took us beyond Salamanca. Hobart with a population of only 130,000 had more historic buildings then I expected but it still didn’t take very long to finish the tour. We walked on Kelly’s Steps built by eccentric land owner Captain James Kelly to link the waterfront area with the residential Battery Point. This district was still lined with small cottages (1850s) and quaint Georgian homes. I would love to live in an area like that. From here we wandered past Parliament House which used to be the Customs House, down to the harbour. The first area was Watermans’ Dock where the men who piloted the small boats to guide in the larger ships or help with the transportation of goods would be stationed. Nowadays the terminals for the harbour ferries and cruise liners are just beyond here. Continuing on, we reached Elizabeth St. Pier which jutted out into the harbour and housed upscale accommodation and restaurants. However what we will remember it for was the small penguin continually popping his torso out of the water after his search for fish. He spent more time underwater than above so he must have been hungry. The skies were getting overcast and the wind was starting to whip around so we pulled our jackets a little tighter and pressed on to Constitution Dock. It was very quiet today but apparently comes alive when yachties celebrate the finish of the famous Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race around New Year and also the Royal Regatta in February. Moored along the northeastern side of the dock were several inexpensive fish and chips shops. Later we came back for yet another meal of Australia’s favourite takeaway. The last area in the harbour was Victoria Dock which has recently been transformed from an industrial area to a contemporary tourist icon. At one time it was a row of handsome stone warehouses and then a large industrial jam factory. Now it has restaurants, art galleries and boutique hotels. It would have been fun to explore but it was now starting to rain.
By this point all of us were ready to take a break and relax in our room at the inn. Later however Brian and I had the difficult task of finding a grocery store to buy something quick for breakfast tomorrow. (We plan to leave the hotel at 5:30am to catch our flight to Sydney.) After filling up the gas tank of the rental car, we then wandered around a good section of the city in search of a shop selling food. There was just not much to be had and when we finally spotted a tiny IGA convenience store, I jumped at the opportunity to pick up some apples and oatmeal cookies. It was definitely slim pickings. A chance encounter led us right past the Cascade Brewery, the oldest one in Australia (1832). So we stopped to take a photo of the grand building; it certainly looked too fancy for a beer factory. There was an odd mix of characters hanging out in the parking lot, waiting to go in for a tour and sampling. Old fat guys, skinny nerdy types, young jocks, used to be jocks with swelling bellies, guys with ZZ Top beards were all touring the brewery together. It was scary to think what they would be acting like after they all consumed a bunch of beer.
Tasmania was a marvelous treat on our Australian odyssey. I just wish it had been a longer one. Tomorrow we head north.